Arab time of my life

Trygt hjemme fra NorPals første helgetur, og jeg er i ekstase over alt vi har opplevd.

Alt har gått som smurt til tross for at det så svært mørkt ut torsdag kveld, dagen før vi skulle dra.

Våre originale planer om overnatting og besøk til byen Betlehem måtte ironisk nok kanselleres i siste øyeblikk fordi det ei var plass på herberget (les hostellet), og siden ingen deltakere var keene på den famøse stallen ble like godt hele turen skrotet.

Like før midnatt dukket de palestinske deltakerne opp i leiligheten vår i Nablus, trøtte og slitne, men fulle av planer for en helt ny helgetur. Planlagt til ytterste detalj med overnatting i Ramallah og besøk til flere landsbyer i området rundt.

Fredag morgen klokken åtte (til de norske deltakernes store overraskelse) stod bussen  – og palestinerne og ventet på oss og avgårde til Ramallah det bar. Svingete små veier gjennom daler som bugnet av oliventrær, skyfri himmel og stekende sol.

Vi har nemlig vendt oss til Arab time som innebærer at hvis noen sier at vi møtes klokken åtte, så betyr det gjerne halv ni-ni. Og når noe tar 15-20 minutter, så betyr det som regel alt fra 30 minutter til et par timer.

Personlig, som en som er permanent forsinket, passer det meg ypperlig. Men det er ganske annerledes fra det veldig presise norske samfunnet og det har bydd på planleggingsutfordringer for oss mer enn én gang.

Da jeg slentret ned til bussen ti over åtte i den tro at Palestinerne sannsynligvis ikke var kommet enda, måtte jeg innrømme at min «Norwegian time» ikke var så presis den heller. Nå, hver gang noen av de norske deltakerne er sent ute, blir det bare skyldt på Norwegian time.

Vårt første stoppested var Yasser Arafat museet. Det var hvitt og vakkert, rette linjer, store rom, og midt på plassen ligger han begravet.

Yasser Arafat museet, sett fra utsiden.

Vi gikk inn til selve graven og alle palestinerne åpnet hendene som de leser en bok, sa lydløse ord og dro deretter fingrene over kinnene, nesten som en strøm av tårer. Jeg har aldri sett det før, men da jeg spurte, litt senere, fortalte de at de sa et vers fra koranen, en slags bønn.

Graven til Yasser Arafat

Vi lærte masse på timene vi tilbrakte i museet, og jeg begynner å ane hvor viktig denne mannen var -og fortsatt er for palestinerne.

Neste post på programmet var museet om den store poeten Mahmoud Darwish (regnet som Palestinas nasjonalpoet), og jeg føler meg snytt for å ikke ha oppdaget denne fantastisk poeten tidligere i mitt liv.

Endelig tid for lunsj, stoppet vi i en liten landsby hvor vi var ventet av besetningen. Stemningen steg i takt med blodsukkeret og alle så ut til å kose seg.
Men er det noe jeg ikke skal ta for gitt når vi er her så er det at ting kan snu så fort. Plutselig blie flere oppmerksomme på en av de palestinske deltakerne som så en video på facebook live. Stedet han kommer fra var plutselig under angrep av israelske soldater og plutselig står vi alle i ring rundt mobilen hans for å følge med på gutten som springer og forsøker å filme hva som skjer samtidig. Vi så mennesker som løper, og plutselig er det ansiktet på en soldat som opptar skjermen og videoen tar slutt.

Latteren som var min noen minutter tidligere satt plutselig fast i halsen. 

Det var lett å se at det gikk innpå palestinerne, men akkurat som stemningen kan gå fra god til skremmende i løpet av sekunder, tok det omtrent like lang tid før de er tilbake til sitt vanlige gode humør.

Vi spiste opp maten og fortsatte mot Ramallah og airBnB’en som vi skulle sove i.

Nå vet ikke jeg hva en gjennomsnittsperson forventer av en airBnB, men jeg tør påstå at ingen kunne sett for seg leiligheten som møtte oss der.

La meg bare beskrive det med at jeg fortsatt vurderer å brenne lakenposen min. Dere kan også ta en titt på denne lille videoen for økt forståelse (la meg bare understreke at videoen viser leiligheten slik den var da vi ankom).

Kvelden fortsatte med karneval i Ramallah, og vi gikk for å se paraden som beveget seg gjennom gatene. Det var vanskelig å motstå lysten til å danse, selv for en stiv og ukomfortabel nordmann som meg selv. Folk dro oss inn i dansesirkler, danset, sang, lo og klappet. Vi endte kvelden på en bar midt inne i en furuskog med shisha og prating.

God stemning på karneval i Ramallah.

Morgenen etter dro vi avgårde til landsbyen Taybeh hvor vi også møter en prest, som selv forteller at han som ung ble bedratt av sin store kjærlighet, ble dypt deprimert, forsøkte å ta sitt eget liv, men deretter fant jesus og siden har viet livet sitt til ham. Jeg spurte om han fant en ny kjærlighet, og han så på meg og svarte med lysende øyne at Jesus var hans liv nå.

NorPal-gjengen benytter seg av en liten pause til å kjøle seg ned i skyggen i landsbyen Taybeh.

Siste stoppested før vi dro tilbake til gode gamle Nablus var en helt ny by ved navn Rawabi. Den er bygget av og for palestinere, og ga en følelse av å plutselig være i Dubai eller Singapore. Litt som en spøkelsesby fordi alt er så nytt at det ikke har rukket å flytte inn så mange enda, ruver den oppå en høyde som vender ut mot endeløse daler og åssider. Midt inne i byen er et yrende torg med restauranter og dyre butikker.
En av palestinerne fortalte senere at én av grunnleggerens ideer med byen er å vise verden at palestinere heller vil bygge med stein enn å kaste dem.

På vei tilbake til Nablus med nyoppdaget arabiske musikk på øret, innser jeg hvor overraskende kort tid det tar for et helt fremmed sted å plutselig føles som hjemme. 

Hilsen Vilde

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