Livet blant israelske bosettere og sjekkpunkter

Dagene fyker av gårde her i Nablus. Formiddagene tilbringes på sykehuset hvor vi snakker med inneliggende pasienter på avdelingene, er flue på veggen i svangerskapsklinikken og får være med på å ta imot barn på fødeavdelingen. Ettermiddagene og kveldene er imidlertid vel så innholds- og lærerike. Hver dag lærer vi noe nytt om livet, kulturen og mentaliteten i Nablus og om de hverdagslige utfordringene Israel-Palestina-konflikten medfører, gjennom utforsking i byen, dialog med de palestinske deltagerne og gjennom foredrag om konflikten og med ulike organsisasjoner som engasjerer seg for en fredsløsning.

Fredsforhandlingene har stagnert fullstendig siden 2009 og generelt kan man merke en pessimisme blant de unge palestinerne vi omgås da utsiktene for en løsning virker urealistisk slik situasjonen er nå. Samtidig tilkommer stadig flere israelere (eller rettere sagt sionister) som bosetter seg i områdene rundt palestinske byer, gjerne på høyder og andre strategiske plasser og på den måten representerer en trussel blant palestinere som kommer stadig nærmere. Nablus er omringet av over 40 israelske bosettinger og utposter med israelske bosettere og tidligere i år har enda en til ulovlig israelsk bosetting blitt registrert i en landsby nær Nablus. Strategien bosetterne bruker er å først sette opp telt på palestinsk jord, deretter mobile hjem før mer avansert infrastruktur som bygninger med elektrisitet og vannledningsnettverk etableres. Israelske bosettinger er ulovlige ifølge internasjonal lov.

Balata flyktningsleir ses i forgrunnen til høyre. På fjellene i bakgrunnen ses ulovlige israelske bosettinger.

I tillegg er det israelske sjekkpunkter på alle store veier i Palestina, også de som forbinder arabiske byer, som kan stoppe palestinske reisende uprovosert og på gefühl. Her om dagen ble familien til en av de palestinske deltagerne stoppet ved et sjekkpunkt og forsinket i flere timer før de fikk dra igjen, dette uten noen grunn å tale om. Når vi reiser mellom Nablus og Jerusalem må vi være «strategiske» og ta en buss med israelske skilter slik at vi ikke skal forsinkes av lange stopp ved sjekkpunktene. En av de palestinske deltagerne beskrev situasjonen her som «å leve i et fengsel» med israelske bosettere på alle kanter og israelske sjekkpunkter på alle store veier.

Det er alltid hektisk i Nablus sentrum.

Uforutsigbarhet har blitt en del av hverdagen i Nablus for palestinere, men til tross for dette går hverdagen sin vante gang. Byen er hektisk og pulserende med et rikt tilbud av restauranter og butikker. Vi bor i området Rafidia som er særlig populært på kveldstid blant unge og gamle palestinere som ønsker å gå ut for å spise eller røyke vannpipe. I sentrum finner man en fantastisk flott gamleby med snirklende gater der man kan finne familiebedrifter som produserer olivenoljesåpe, tyrkiske bad («hammam») og utallige utsalgsboder med alt fra frukt og grønt til levende høns og eksotiske fugler. Vandrende i disse gatene kan man i blant glemme bakteppet av en konflikt som alltid truer.

Frukt og grønt i gamlebyen.

Hilsen Milla

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