De innskutte setningene

Vi sitter på Sama Nablus – Nablus’ himmel – det høyeste punktet i byen. Vi prater om stort og smått mens vi ser på utsikten. Vi snakker om det å være for seg selv. En av våre venner er oppvokst i United Arab Emirates (UAE), og har kun bodd i Palestina siden han begynte på medisinstudiet for tre år siden. I UAE hadde han et vann han kunne gå langs når han ville være alene. Det savner han her. Vår venninne, som har bodd her hele livet, sier det ikke er noe sted i Nablus man kan være for seg selv, annet enn på rommet sitt. Det er to fjell her, og jeg spør om de ikke drar opp til dem for å komme litt unna. Ikke alene, sier hun. Hvorfor spør jeg. Fordi det er farlig. Jeg antar at hun snakker om at det er utrygt i mørket. Jeg tar det for gitt at hun snakker om en utrygghet jeg selv har kjent på. Jeg tar meg selv i å anta å vite hva hun snakker om. Så jeg spør hvorfor. Fordi det er en bosetning like bak. ”They attack us or kidnap us if they see an arab alone.”

Dagene er fredfulle. Vi er på sykehuset og går runder med legene. Vi går på butikken og handler til middag. Hverdagen er gjenkjennelig. Vi ser fotball, går på konsert, drar på utflukter. Noen ting er likevel annerledes. Øl er byttet ut med shisha. Hummusen er alltid på bordet. Bønneropene fra moskeen lyder over byen. Vi feiret eid i stedet for jul.

Okkupasjonen er lett å glemme. Men med et øyeblikk er den tilbake. Samtalene med våre palestinske venner handler om stort og smått, om kultur, om fremtidsplaner, om filmer og bøker, om erfaringer. Vi er vanlige unge mennesker som snakker om vanlige liv. Men så, helt uventet, kommer de. De innskutte setningene som viser seg å kunne bli romaner hvis man bare griper tak i dem og spør.

”Vi skal prøve å få fikset wifi i leiligheten deres, vi har ikke 3G, så det er wifi nesten overalt”. Hvorfor har de ikke 3G? Fordi teknologien er gjort ulovlig av okkupasjonen. De kan ha det hvis de har israelsk simkort, men da må de reise til Israel for å fylle det på. Noe mange av de ikke kan. Bevegelsesfriheten deres er begrenset.

”Bare gi oss beskjed om hvor dere vil reise – det er korte avstander så det er enkelt. Til Jerusalem kan kun tre av palestinerne bli med, og jeg kan ikke forlate Nablus, men bare finn ut hvor dere vil reise så skal vi finne ut av hvordan vi gjør det enklest”, sier en av de palestinske deltakerne når helgeutfluktene planlegges. Hvorfor kan han ikke forlate Nablus? Fordi da søsteren sa hun skulle til Palestina for å studere fikk hun ikke reise inn. De er redd for at mange palestinere som har forlatt landet skal komme tilbake og bosette seg her. Derfor tok ikke han samme sjanse ved innreise for studiestart. Siden han nå har et turistvisum til sitt eget hjemland kan han ikke reise ut av byen hvor han skal være student i seks år. Israel eier nemlig veiene mellom byene, så dersom dette oppdages på et ”check point” står han i fare for å nektes innreise igjen. Men hvorfor kan ikke de andre reise til Jerusalem? Det er jo i Palestina? Vi er alle født like, men noen er likere enn andre. Også her. Eller kanskje spesielt her. Det finnes ingen palestinske statsborgerskap, men ulike identitetskort. Palestinere flest har et grønt kort som må bæres med til en hver tid. Har du dette kortet er det mange begrensninger, blant annet innreise til Jerusalem. Palestinere som er født og blir i Jerusalem får et blått identitetskort som gir dem tilgang på byen. Bor du for lenge utenbys står du i fare for å miste det. Tre av de palestinske deltakerne i år er fra Jerusalem og kunne bli med oss på dagstur dit, men de resterende syv måtte bli hjemme. Noen av de aller helligste stedene i dere religion er dermed utilgjengelig med mindre de får innvilget søknad om innreise.

”Bruk så mye vann som dere trenger, men helst ikke mer enn det som er nødvendig” ba huseieren oss om første kvelden. Å være sparsom med ressurser vi tar for gitt hjemme er noe mange er vant med når de er ute og reiser. Likevel – når de sier vi bør være forsiktige med vannbruken her, er det begynnelsen på en fortelling om at 80% av vannet som ligger under Vestbredden er under Israelsk kontroll. Det er en fortelling om at de har blitt tilbudt å kjøpe dyrt avsaltet havvann fra Israel i stedet for å bruke grunnvannet de står og går på, og som er under deres eget territorium. I tillegg er det en fortelling om at de ulovlige bosetterne på palestinsk territorium i snitt bruker mer enn 10 ganger så mye vann sammenliknet med palestinerne.

Okkupasjonen er ikke alltid like synlig for oss når vi rusler rundt i Jerusalem, Bethlehem eller Nablus. Den er ikke alltid i fokus når vi diskuterer feminisme og hijab, eller hva vi har lyst til å gjøre i fremtiden, eller når vi spiller kort og ler av trivielle ting. Okkupasjonen er i stor grad subtil, men likevel et altomfattende bakteppe i en fortelling om helt vanlige liv. En hverdagsfortelling for historiebøkene – om man bare husker å spørre om de dagligdagse, innskutte setningene.

61 kommentarer om “De innskutte setningene

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