Helg nummer 2: Helligheter, klisjéer og litt psykiatri

By norpal.sawa@gmail.comUkategorisert

2 av totalt 3 helgeturer med NorPal er allerede overstått. De sier Arab time betyr at alt går sakte, men jammen synes jeg tiden går ganske fort! Helg nummer 2 gjorde vi til en langhelg, slik at vi faktisk rakk å besøke Jerusalem, Betlehem, en beduinlandsby i ørkenen utenfor Betlehem, og Hebron på én helg.

Onsdag ettermiddag satt vi oss på bussen fra Nablus til Jerusalem. Vi har blitt en sammensveiset gjeng av nordmenn og palestinere, men siden kun palestinerne som kommer fra Jerusalem (et fåtall i vår gruppe) har tillatelse fra israelske myndigheter til å besøke Jerusalem, var gruppen trist nok splittet. Det var bare vi nordmennene og Nada, en av palestinerne, som skulle reise. Omgitt på bussen av medisinstudenter som satt og leste anatomi, lovpriste vi at vi i Norge har sommerFERIE og ikke sommerSEMESTER. Da vi skulle gjennom et checkpoint på vei inn til Jerusalem, lovpriste jeg livet i Norge én gang til, da det kom en for så vidt søt israelsk jente på vår alder eller yngre, fra Israel Defence Forces, inn på bussen med et svært gevær over skulderen. Hun skulle se pass og visum til alle passasjerer, og kontrollen gikk heldigvis smertefritt. I Israel er det minimum 2 års allmenn verneplikt for både menn og kvinner. Jeg ville gitt mange shekels for å se hva som foregår inni hodet til denne jenta!

Vel fremme i Jerusalem vandret vi inn i gamlebyen og sjekket inn på et sjarmerende hostell med et hule-liknende interiør og en takterasse med enestående utsikt over Jerusalems gamleby. Det bar så videre til middag og VM-kamp i New Town, og jeg merket hvor fort jeg har blitt vant til Vestbreddens konservative kleskode: Det å se folk på gata i singlet og shorts gjorde meg overrasket! Håper tilvenningen den andre veien går like fort, ellers blir det interessant å komme tilbake til Norge…

Neste dag sto det umulige prosjektet «Se Jerusalem på én dag» for tur. Guidebøkene vi har vært borti anbefaler alt fra 4 dager til én uke som absolutt minimum for å se denne byen, men «desperate times calls for desperate measures». Med oss hadde vi heldigvis Ibraheem og hans venn Bashar, som begge kommer fra Jerusalem, til å vise oss rundt. Det ble en heseblesende men effektiv dag, hvor vi strente opp og ned gjennom Jerusalems gamleby, hellebelagte smug og markeder, og fikk sett flere kirker, moskéer, hellige og historiske steder enn jeg kan telle. For å nevne høydepunktene: Klagemuren, Church of the Holy Sepulchre bygget på stedet der Jesus ble korsfestet, Tempelhøyden med den politisk omstridte Al-Aqsa-moskéen og nydelige Dome of the Rock. Tempelhøyden er stedet der viktige religiøse hendelser som universets og Adams skapelse, Abrahams ofring av Isak til Gud, Solomons tempel (det 1. tempel), og Mohammad’s Night Journey skal ha funnet sted.

 

 

Kvelden ble brukt til å se en av de nydeligste solnedgangene jeg har sett, fra Mount of Olives med utsikt over hele Jerusalem.

Jerusalem er kanskje den vakreste byen jeg har sett i mitt liv, og jeg ville anbefalt alle og enhver på det sterkeste å besøke den, hadde det ikke vært for at det føles noe problematisk å legge igjen penger i en by flere av våre palestinske venner kanskje aldri vil få muligheten til å besøke. Jerusalem er i dag todelt, med det palestinske Øst-Jerusalem som har vært under israelsk okkupasjon siden 1967, og det israelske Vest-Jerusalem. Både Israel og Palestina ønsker å ha byen som hovedstad. Ibraheem mente selv at Jerusalem er verdt turen hvis man er bevisst på å legge igjen penger i den palestinske delen av byen.

Jeg opplever at palestinerne vi har blitt kjent med som kommer fra Jerusalem, er utrolig flinke til å fremme et balansert syn på situasjonen, kanskje fordi de lever så nære den andre aktøren i konflikten. De er opptatt av at mange israelere ikke støtter alt myndighetene deres iverksetter, og at selv om situasjonen vekker vanskelige følelser, er det viktigste og mest konstruktive å forholde seg til situasjonen slik den er nå og å se fremover. Jeg tar dette til meg da jeg tror det er noe som kan brukes generelt livet. Kanskje vi en dag kan ha NorPal-reunion i denne nydelige byen.

Neste dag sa vi oss uansett fornøyde med at ingen hadde fått Jerusalem syndrome – en psykosetilstand med verdensinsidens på 80-100 tilfeller per år, der besøkende i Jerusalem blir så overveldet av alle hellighetene at de begynner å tro de selv er en bibelsk figur, eller at apokalypsen er nær. Friske og raske tok vi lokalbuss til Betlehem, der vi møtte resten av palestinerne igjen – et hyggelig gjensyn! Mon tro hvordan det blir å reise fra dem om to uker når én dag fra hverandre føles lenge. Siden vi dagen før hadde sett stedet for Jesu korsfestelse, var det fint å nå få se Church of Nativity som er bygget på stedet for Jesu fødsel.

Som en reaksjon mot den andre intifadaen, der palestinerne i år 2000-2005 gjorde opprør mot israelsk okkupasjon, reiste israelske myndigheter en mur langs Vestbreddens grense mot Israel. Israelske myndigheter hevder dette for å bedre sikkerheten til både palestinere og israelere, mens den palestinske oppfatningen stort sett er at dette er en ytterlige innskrenkning av deres frihet. Delen av muren som ligger i Betlehem har blitt dekorert med politiske protester av grafittikunstneren Banksy, og etter hvert også mange andre. Nå ligger det et en Banksy-butikk der du kan kjøpe merchandise eller spraymaling til å lage ditt eget bidrag. Muren, som her er helt dekket av grafitti, var et sterkt syn.

 

Neste stopp i vår innholdsrike helg var overnatting i en beduinlandsby en times kjøretur i ørkenen utenfor Betlehem. Dette var en fantastisk avkobling fra det yrende by- og turismelivet vi hadde levd de to siste dagene. Vi ankom akkurat i tide til å se solnedgangen over et vakkert fjellandskap helt ulikt det norske: Vegetasjonsløse, men myke og avrundede topper som fortsatte så langt man kunne se, absolutt stillhet og en stjernehimmel klarere enn jeg noen gang har sett. Det ga harmonisk stemning og rett og slett sjelefred. Dette var hos en beduinfamilie som i følge guiden vår lever på tradisjonelt vis: Barna fullfører stort sett barneskolen, jentene blir gjerne forlovet ved 15 års alder, og de lever som bønder med geiter og jordbruk. Polygami praktiseres. Denne familien hadde tatt imot turister de siste 7-8 årene som en ekstrainntekt. Vi lekte med barna, fikk servert lokal mat og fortalte spøkelseshistorier rundt bålet.

 

Hvis dette høres klisjéfylt ut er det bare å vente på beskrivelsen av resten av oppholdet: Natten ble tilbrakt i telt, før vi sto opp klokken 4, satt oss på lasteplanet til en jeep og kjørte avgårde ut i ørkenen helt til vi nådde Dødehavet. Standarden på ørkenveiene var noe tvilsom, og vi holdt stemningen oppe med å synge The Smiths’ «There is a light that never goes out»: ‘To die by your side is such a heavenly way to die’. Hehe. Ved Dødehavet nøt vi den vakre soloppgangen, før vi kjørte tilbake. Apropos klisjéer så fikk den ene jeepen selvfølgelig motorproblemer halvveis, og vi måtte bruke drikkevannet vårt til å kjøle ned motoren. Da vi hadde fått den i gang igjen (mashallah!) var vi så heldige at vi møtte på en flokk kameler. Akkurat når du tror det ikke kan bli bedre – så blir det bedre!

 

Det vi aldri hadde kunnet forutse var da vi kjørte forbi et rave-party midt i ørkenen. Det var ganske rolig første gang vi kjørte forbi, før soloppgang, og begynte å ta av da vi kjørte forbi på vei hjem igjen. Dette er definitivt det siste stedet jeg hadde ventet å høre steke-musikk!

Etter en deilig lokal frokost inntatt uten bestikk gikk turen videre til Hebron – en by som er så spesiell at den fortjener sitt eget innlegg. Vi snakkes!

Hilsen Tale

______________________________________________________________________________

Weekend number 2: Holyness, clichés and some psychiatry

2 out of a total of 3 weekend trips with NorPal have already passed. They say Arab time means that everything takes time, but I must say I find that time passes quite quickly! We made a long weekend out of weekend number 2, so that we were actually able to visit Jerusalem, Bethlehem, a bedouin village in the desert outside Bethlehem, and Hebron in one weekend.

Wednesday afternoon, we took the bus from Nablus to Jerusalem. We have in the past two weeks become a tightly knit gang of Norwegians and Palestinians, but as only Jerusalem-Palestinians (a minority in our group) are permitted by Israeli authorities to go to Jerusalem, the group was, sadly, split. Only us Norwegians and Nada, one of the Jerusalem-Palestinians, were going. On the bus we were surrounded by medical students studying anatomy, and so we were actively appreciating the fact that we have summer HOLIDAYS and not summer SEMESTERS in Norway. Later, when we were stopped in a checkpoint on the way, I actively appreciated life in Norway once again. A girl our age or younger, from the Israeli Defense Forces, came in with a rifle over her shoulder, to control our passports and visas. The control was unproblematic and we were allowed to pass. Israel has two years mandatory military draft for both genders. I would give many shekels to see what is going on in the brain of this girl!

On arrival in Jerusalem, we wandered into the Old City and checked into a charming hostel with a cavelike interior and a rooftop terrace with an outstanding view over the Old City. We went out for dinner and the World Cup game in the New Town, and I noticed how fast I have become accustomed to the conservative manner of dressing in the West Bank: Seeing people on the street wearing a singlet and a shorts made me quite surprised! I hope I will get accustomed the other way just as fast, or it is going to be an interesting experience to go back to Norway…

Next day we were doing the impossible mission of seeing Jerusalem in one day. All the guidebooks we have read recommend a minimum of 4 days or a week as an absolute minimum to see this city, but desperate times calls for desperate measures. We were so lucky as to have the locals Ibraheem and his friend Bashar with us. It was a very efficient day were we marched up and down the alleys and markets of the Old City. We got to see countless churches, mosques and holy and historic places. The most important ones: The Western Wall, Church of the Holy Sepulcher which is built on the site of Christ´s crucifixion, and Temple mount with its politically disputed Al-Aqsa mosque and the beautiful Dome of the Rock.

We spent the evening watching one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen, from the Mount of Olives with a view of the whole city. Jerusalem might be the most beautiful city I have ever seen, and I would have recommended it strongly to everyone and anyone, if it just had not been for the fact that it does feel problematic to leave money in a city most of our Palestinian friends might never get the chance to visit. Jerusalem is currently divided into two parts: The Palestinian East Jerusalem which has been under Israeli occupation since 1967, and the Israeli West Jerusalem. Both Israel and Palestine wants to have Jerusalem as their capital. Ibraheem thought that as long as you try to spend your money in the Palestinian part of the city, Jerusalem is worth the trip.

My impression is that the Palestinians we have gotten to know that come from Jerusalem, are incredibly good at promoting a balanced view of the situation. This is perhaps because they live so close to the other actor of the conflict. They tell us that many Israelis do not support all measures that the Israeli authorities implement, and that even though the current situation raises difficult emotions, looking forward and handling the situation as it is, is more important and constructive than dwelling on the past. I try to remember this as I think it is wisdom that can be useful to all. Maybe we one day can have a NorPal-reunion in this beautiful city.

Next day, we were happy to state that none had acquired the Jerusalem Syndrome – a psychotic condition with a world incidence of 80-100 cases per year: Visitors to Jerusalem are so overwhelmed by all the holyness that they start think they themselves are biblical figures or that the apocalypse is near. In good health, we took the local bus to Bethlehem, where we met the rest of the Palestinians – a very nice reunion. I wonder what it will be like when we in two weeks time leave Palestine, now that being away from each other for only one day feels long! Since we had seen the place of Christ´s crucifixion the day before, it was nice to go to the Church of Nativity to see the place of Christ´s birth.

As a reaction to the Second Intifada, Israeli authorities constructed a wall along the border of the West Bank. Israeli authorities claim this is to improve the security of both Palestinians and Israelis, but the general Palestinian conception is that this is a further restriction on their freedom. Parts of the wall located in Bethlehem are decorated with political protests by the graffiti artist Banksy, and eventually also by many others. Now there is a Banksy-store there where you can buy merchandise or spray paint to make your own contribution. The wall, which here is completely covered in grafitti, was a moving sight.

Next stop in our busy weekend was sleeping in a Bedouin Village an hour’s drive away from Bethlehem. This was an amazing way to disconnect from the bustling urban tourism-life we had been leading for the past two days. We arrived just in time for a beautiful sunset over a mountainous landscape very unlike that of Norway – with vegetation free but soft and rounded peaks which continued so far as the eye could see, absolute silence and a starry sky clearer than any other starry sky I have seen. This gave harmony and peace for the mind. This was at the home of a Bedouin family who according to our guide live traditionally: The children mostly finish elementary school, the girls get engaged at age 15, and they live as farmers with goats and agriculture. Polygamy is practiced. This family had been receiving tourists for the last 7-8 years as an additional income. We played with the children, were served local food and told horror stories around the bonfire. If this sounds like a cliché to you, just wait for the rest: The night was spent in a tent, before we got up at 4 to drive with jeeps to the Dead Sea and watch the sunrise. The standard of the desert roads was not quite like the Norwegian road standards, but we tried to maintain a good mood by singing The Smiths´ «There is a light that never goes out»: ´To die by your side is such a heavenly way to die´. Hehe. By the Dead Sea we enjoyed the sight of the beautiful sunrise, before we drove back. Talking of clichés, one of the jeeps had some engine trouble on the way back, and we had to use our drinking water to cool down the engine. When we were able to restart it (mashallah!), we were so lucky as to meet a herd of camels in the middle of the road. Just when you think it doesn’t get better – it does!

What we could have never predicted is that we drove past a rave-party in the middle of the desert. At first, on our way to the sunrise, it was quite calm, but on the way back it was starting to get crazy. This is definitely the last place I was expecting to see anything slightly resembling a party.

After consuming a delicious local breakfast we continued on to Hebron – a city that is so special it deserves its own post.
All the best, Tale

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