En av helgeturene våre da vi var i Palestina, var til Jerusalem. Jerusalem ligger fem mil fra Nablus i luftlinje, men på grunn av separasjonsmuren og kontrollpostene må man kjøre 18 mil. Hele turen tar rundt halvannen time, men det var bare tre av de ti palestinske deltakerne som fikk lov til å reise dit. De tre bor til vanlig i Jerusalem og har derfor ”citizenship” i byen. Dette er et blått kort som bekrefter at de er borgere i byen, og det gjør at de kan passere kontrollpostene ut av Vestbredden og inn i Jerusalem. Dette kortet må de tre bære med seg til enhver tid.
Man antar at det har vært bosetninger i Jerusalem siden rundt 3500 år f.v.t. I løpet av disse fem tusen årene har det vært forskjellige styrere og folkegrupper som har dominert i området. Folkegruppene har etterlatt et preg på byen som vi i dag kan finne som bygninger, ruiner eller minner om noe som en gang fantes.
Jerusalem er en splittet by. Gamlebyen er delt i fire: en jødisk, en muslimsk, en kristen og en armensk del. Byen, som så mye annet i dette landet, bærer sterkt preg av å ha mange helligdommer til ulike religioner innenfor en liten radius. Et steinkast unna hverandre ligger viktige helligdommer til tre av de største verdensreligionene: klagemuren og tempelhøyden til jødene (her stod det første tempelet til jødene, de mener at her skapte Gud verden og Adam ble til her), Al Aqsa-moskeen og klippedomen til muslimene (det tredje helligste stedet deres, bygget oppå tempelet til jødene) og Den hellige gravs kirke til de kristne (her de mener at Jesus ble gravlagt).
Når man går rundt i gamlebyen, kan man tydelig forstå i hvilken del man befinner seg. I den arabiske delen er det trange gater med markeder med krydder, tekstiler og vannpiper. Det er hektisk med mange mennesker, særlig hvis man treffer på strømmen av folk som har bedt i Al-Aqsa-moskeen, vennlige smil og ”welcome” overalt. I den jødiske delen er det roligere, bredere gater og minst én ortodoks jøde med krøller å se i hvert synsfelt. Disse har som yrke å lese Toraen og får økonomisk støtte av staten Israel. Den armenske delen av gamlebyen er stengt, og man får bare komme inn hvis man kjenner noen som kan slippe en inn. Det gjorde ikke vi, dessverre.
To av oss var så heldige å få feire eid i Jerusalem og få tilbringe noen ekstra dager der. Da gikk vi en del rundt i gamlebyen. Det var tydelig at palestinerne vi var sammen med ikke pleide å gå i andre kvartaler enn sine egne. Da vi spurte en ortodoks jøde om noen søyler vi så, løy vår palestinske venn og sa hun var fransk da hun ble spurt hvor hun kom fra. Det var tydelig at hun var ukomfortabel. Det var så mye styr å si at hun var araber, mente hun.
Jerusalems gamleby er omfavnet av en stor bymur. I bymuren er det porter som har navn etter hva de tidligere ble brukt til. I den muslimske delen finner man blant annet portene ”Jaffa gate” og ”Damaskus gate”. Ved ”Jaffa gate” ble varene som skulle til og fra Jaffa, utenfor Tel Aviv, losset og lastet. Ved ”Damaskus gate” ble i likhet varene til Damaskus behandlet. I dag er ”Damaskus gate” et anspent område. Det er hovedporten inn til den muslimske delen av gamlebyen, og det er flere israelske soldater med maskingevær der på post til enhver tid. Dette er stedet flest palestinere blir drept av israelske soldater, ifølge våre palestinske guider. De var tydelig nervøse da vi gikk forbi og vil at vi raskt skulle gå videre. De sa at soldatene har en ”shoot first, ask later”- holdning og at man aldri kan vite når noe kan komme til å skje.
De israelske soldatene i Jerusalem er i byen fordi Israel, etter 6-dagerskrigen i 1967, okkuperte hele byen. Tidligere, mellom 1948 og 1967, var Jerusalem delt mellom Israel og Jordan. Israel mener at Jerusalem skal være Israels evige og udelelige hovedstad. FN anerkjenner ikke dette kravet, og sikkerhetsrådets resolusjon 478 avviser dette. Tel Aviv er derfor Israels internasjonalt anerkjente hovedstad i dag. Palestinerne ønsker også Jerusalem som sin hovedstad i sin stat. Jerusalem styres i dag av et israelsk bystyre med en israelsk borgermester. Det er også en palestinsk guvernør i byen.
I dag er det en tydelig forskjell på øst- og vestsiden av byen. I vest bor jødene, og i øst bor muslimene. Vi feiret eid i øst, litt utenfor bysentrum. Her ble vi fortalt at alle borgere av Jerusalem betaler 15% skatt til byen. Dette skal brukes på veier, til søppelplukking og andre tjenester. Selv om alle borgerne betaler lik andel skatt, blir pengene fordelt forskjellig i øst og vest. I vest er det renere gater og bedre kollektivtilbud enn i øst. De store veiene blir plassert i øst, slik at det går utover husene til muslimene, ikke til jødene. Det er en form for snikdiskriminering som borgerne fra østsiden av byen opplever hver dag.
Det er også direkte forskjeller på behandlingen av innbyggerne i byen. Idet vi kjører til ett av husene vi skal feire eid i, peker våre palestinske venner på flere av husene. Der har det tidligere bodd muslimer, men de har blitt kastet ut fordi Israel mener at huset egentlig tilhører dem. Mange jøder som flytter til Israel blir tilbudt hus, og ofte bor det muslimer i disse husene fra før. Muslimene må da flytte. De får bo en måned i telt på eiendommen før de må helt vekk. De får ingen økonomisk kompensasjon for den tapte eiendommen eller stresset og påkjenningen familien blir utsatt for.
Konflikten om Jerusalem er ett av kjernepunktene i striden mellom Israel og Palestina. I Oslo-avtalen fra 1993 ble det ikke tatt stilling til Jerusalems status, og det har heller ikke blitt vedtatt noe senere. Helligdommene ligger side om side i byen, noe som fører til flere religioners og etnisiteters sterke eierskap til området. Israel gjør per dags dato som de vil i byen, og det kan de fortsette å gjøre så lenge verden vender Jerusalems borgere ryggen.
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